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Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Maritime Cambridge

Cambridge has a rich maritime history, and some of it was still developing right in front of our eyes.

The harbour basin we were in is fringed with a mix of new apartments and docks for local yachts and fishing boats. At the far end, a drawbridge opens to allow access to the upper creek, and the frequent opening and closing provided plenty of entertainment for Max.

Over the far side of the basin, an old and nicely restored Skipjack is moored. The Skipjack is a traditional sailing boat built to dredge for local oysters, and there is still a good fleet of them around, especially as the regulations limit oyster fishing by modern motor boat to a few days of the week but allow more fishing by sail driven boats. Next to this fairly well kept, white painted example we notice a mast sticking out of the water. On closer inspection this belongs to a sunken Skipjack. Asking around, we discover that she is a restoration project, the largest boat of her type built, and she has sunk at least twice at her moorings. She is a sorry sight, the decks a foot below water and covered with weed.

So it was intriguing to see a crane arrive a couple of days later and begin lifting the mast from the sunken vessel. We wandered round in the afternoon, by which time the boat had been pumped out and was floating again, and looking almost more sorry for herself than before. You have to wonder about the dedication, drive and, frankly, the sanity of the people who continue to try to rescue such craft
and return them to working order.

Cambridge is home to a maritime museum with an associated boatyard and workshop where old local craft, both sail and motor, have been restored and saved. Many are still in the midst of this process, like the upside down hull of a skipjack, laid out on the grass by the creek and covered in a makeshift tarpaulin shed. Surrounded by bits of wood, old and new, slowly taking shape into a living, working boat, we could just wander freely around - there was little going on in the cold October weather.

In the museum, there was a treasure trove of beautiful artifacts and spectacular models, artfully arranged and explained with plenty to keep everyone, young and old, interested for a good hour. It was only a little, three room museum but, like the town it lives in, it was full of quirks and character. Max enjoyed re-arranging all the little model boats they had for sale into a neatly organised 'marina'. I particularly liked a model motor boat which had been built to commemorate the launch of the rebuilt vessel and had a plaque attached that read:

"This fine little ship is the ultimate result of the efforts of the many captains whose advice, suggestions, recommendations, additions, subtractions and deletions have made the vessel what she is today. Without such devotion and attention this christening ceremony could have been held twelve months sooner."

With boats, at least any boat worth paying attention to, it was ever the same.
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