A warm welcome in Pemaquid

Weren't we going to Damariscove, lovely lonely island, one of the earliest European settlements in the New World?
Well yes but the weather has a way of changing our plans and once again, wonderful, serendipitous things happen as a result.

The evening before departure, we listened to the weather forecast, as usual, to hear predictions of up to twenty-five knots from the south, gusts to thirty maybe. Whilst there's nothing dangerous in that, the harbour on Damariscove looks open to the south so we would have felt the waves and life could have been uncomfortable. The weather front would also bring cooler, wetter weather so the thought of being stuck on a lonely island, remaining on board because of the weather and being bounced by the swell did not really appeal.

A look at the chart and the pilot book suggested that Pemaquid might be a good choice. Another historic place, site of a fort that had been fought over and rebuilt many times by the English, French, native Indians and last of all the local settlers. A choice of harbours with more protection looked good so we plotted a course and headed on.

It was a lovely day and a good downwind sail through interesting island scenery, although the rolling got to Gesa eventually but as we rounded Pemaquid point the sea flattened out and we found the harbor easily. Unfortunately the more sheltered inner harbor was full of moorings and lobster pots with no space to anchor, so we came back to the outer harbour and found a spot with a gap in the lobster buoys.

Just as we were settling, a hobie cat sails by slowly and says hello, then offers us a mooring. Its a little further in, more sheltered and looks good if the wind is going to blow. So we took that and before we know it we are invited ashore for a drink.

Maybe it's the boat, her British flag, our accents, or something else, but we find everyone is interested in our story. When people also have kids of a similar age, things tend to just click and yet again we found ourselves adopted into the warmth and generosity of an American family.

Based in Connecticut, and spending two months in their house in Maine, this family were clearly enjoying their summer and taking advantage of a rare chance for Dad to spend the whole summer with his wife and kids, a blessing we understand only to well. With two boys almost the same age as our kids, and a baby daughter, a drink together turned into dinner, then an invitation to drive us out to the lighthouse the next day, and breakfast, and dinner again and, and, and is there no end to the generosity of people we meet on this coast.

There's a real contrast between here and our time in the Caribbean. There, we lived outdoors, in the water, on the beach, but we never really met or talked in depth with any local residents. Our social life was with other cruising sailors. There is a clear cultural and economic barrier between us - rich, white tourists and the mainly coloured and relatively poor local population.

Here in Maine, there is much less difference and common ground is found very quickly. There is also much more wealth here, so to offer and to accept hospitality is easier. We can usually only offer our story and company in return, and we personally undertake to 'pay it forward' and welcome travellers into our home once we settle in Canada. It's also another reminder of how fortunate we are to live and travel in a world of abundance where time and relationships matter more than money.