Les Fruits de Mer

Living on the sea, you would think that fish was a big part of our diet. In Antigua, we ate surprisingly little fish. We didn't catch much around the island, as the better fishing is offshore, and we never seemed to run into fishing boats returning at the right time.

In Guadeloupe, it's been a bit different. In Deshaies, there is a little fishing harbour and very close by, a little stall with an ice cabinet where they sell fish in the mornings. Max and I went and they had a piece of tuna tail, it was huge, so we bought a slice - three quarters of a kilo for seven euros. The slice was a good 30cm across and tasted fantastic.

We discovered that the family and I have a difference of opinion regarding the cooking of tuna. Whilst I love it just seared, raw in the middle served with soy and wasabi, the others want it fully cooked, right through. We must agree to differ and leave mine out of the pan for most of the cooking time.

The leftover scraps of tuna, when thrown into the water, produce a litle flurry of activity around us so we get out the fishing line, rig our smallest hooks and try to catch something. After some experimentation, and a lot of lost bait, we catch a small fish, show it to the kids and let it go. Issie then tries, baiting her hook and waiting, sure enough, a tug on the line and she reels in another one. Issie has caught her first fish!

Later that evening, a dinghy motors slowly around the harbour. We watch with interest as he visits a few boats, then as he approaches us, it becomes clear. They have caught a big fish, more than they can possibly eat, and are giving most of it away - do we want some? Sure, that's great. We bake some brownies and I take them over as an exchange. The fish is a kingfish, very meaty white flesh, pretty tasty and very good in a gumbo.

Not to be outdone, I put out the fishing line on the way to the Riviere Salle. Actually, I am still completely outdone, but we do catch a spanish mackerel, a small tuna type fish with lovely dark meat. Small, but very tasty.

Time to buy some more lures and catch a few more dinners.....