And as we motored on towards Scrabster, we saw a pilot whale, and stopped engines to watch. We were just off Dunnet Head, the most northerly point of mainland Britain, and drank a dram of malt whisky to celebrate whilst watching the sun set over Hoy (and the Old Man of Hoy, the famous climbing stack of rock). We poured a dram into the sea to thank Neptune for letting us pass so gently by.